Safety first
The springs in a roller door are wound tight and hold the door's weight. Do not loosen any bolts on the roll or its brackets. If the door is heavy, crooked or jammed, keep clear of it and call us.
How a roller door works
A roller door is one sheet of ribbed steel, called the curtain. When the door opens, the curtain winds up around a drum above the opening. Each edge runs in a guide, which is a channel fixed to the side of the opening.
The roll sits on an axle, and each end of the axle is clamped to a bracket on the wall.
Springs, usually inside the roll, carry most of the door's weight. They wind up as the door closes and give that energy back as it opens. That is why a roller door in good order moves with light effort. Opener makers set limits of about 15 to 20 kg of lifting effort for the doors their motors drive.
- Curtain. The ribbed steel sheet that is the door itself.
- Roll (drum). The curtain winds onto it. The springs are usually inside.
- Axle and brackets. The axle runs through the roll and is clamped to a wall bracket at each end.
- Guides. The channels the curtain's edges slide in.
- Bottom rail. The stiff bar along the bottom edge.
- Lock. Take the key out before the door goes up.
- Opener. The motor, fitted at one end of the roll.
- Release cord. On most openers, it hangs from the motor so the door can be moved by hand.
Where the opener fits
A roller door opener usually sits at one end of the roll and turns the drum. On most openers a cord hangs from it so the motor can be released and the door moved by hand. AGG Doors has a short page on disengaging a roller door motor.
An opener is built to move a balanced door, meaning one whose springs carry its weight. Makers warn against letting the motor make up for a door that is sticking or heavy. A stiff door should be fixed, not forced with the remote.
Common roller door problems and what they usually mean
Heavy to lift, or it will not stay up
Springs lose tension as they age. The door starts to feel heavy, drops when you let go of it, or rolls up loosely. It needs its springs re-tensioned, which is a job for a technician.
Runs crooked or rolls up unevenly
Usually a spring has lost tension, the curtain is bent or a guide is loose. Running strips that have slipped on the curtain's edges, or a guide that is no longer straight up and down, can also be behind it. Stop using the door if it is catching, and have it checked.
Sticks or jams in the guides
Dirt or the wrong lubricant in the guides can make a door hard to move. So can a guide that is no longer straight. If the door only drags a little, cleaning the guides is something you can do yourself. The steps are further down this page. If it is jammed, keep clear and call.
Noisy
A loud squeak or squeal is one of the signs a door is due for a service. Cleaning the guides is the one safe thing to try first. If the noise stays, book a service so the door and opener can be checked.
The motor runs or strains but the door barely moves
The door may be out of balance, the opener may have been released with the cord, or the opener itself may have a fault. Do not keep pressing the remote. If the garage door will not open at all, see garage door won't open.
Reverses on windy days
Strong wind pushes on the curtain and the guides. Now and then that extra load trips the opener's safety sensing, and the door stops or goes back up. If it also happens in calm weather, see garage door won't close.
Dented or creased curtain
Whether a damaged curtain can stay in service or needs replacing is judged on site. Send a photo with your quote request and we can give you a rough estimate first.
What you can safely do yourself
- Wipe inside each guide with a cloth dampened with mineral turps or methylated spirits. This is B&D's advice for its Roll-A-Door.
- If you use a lubricant in the guides, use silicone spray only. Door makers say not to use grease, oil, WD-40 or RP7 there, because they clog the strips the curtain runs on.
- Wash the door with clean water about once a month. Include the top of the roll inside the garage, where rain never reaches.
- Check that the lock moves freely, and take the key out before the door goes up. A key left in the lock can bend or break.
- Every six months, on a door that is working normally, check by hand that lifting and lowering take about the same light effort. If the door has an opener, follow your manual to release it first, and only with the door fully closed.
What to leave alone
Leave the U-bolts, brackets, axle and springs alone. The U-bolts that clamp the axle also hold the spring tension. Loosening one can release the spring and bring the door down with force. Steel-Line, one of the door makers, tells owners never to adjust the tension themselves because of the risk of serious injury.
What a roller door repair visit involves
A visit to a Rowville address is $249, which covers GST and the technician's labour on site. If the door needs parts or a bigger repair, you get a price first and decide before anything is fitted. After-hours call-outs are charged at a higher rate, which we confirm when you call. The repair cost guide lists the other prices AGG Doors publishes.
On a roller door, the technician's checks include:
- checking and adjusting the spring tension so the door is balanced again
- checking that the guides are straight and lined up
- lubricating the moving parts and tightening the hardware
- adjusting the opener's force and where it stops at the top and bottom
- testing the remotes and safety sensors
AGG Doors keeps parts for current and discontinued doors at its Hallam warehouse and works on almost every brand sold in Australia, including B&D, Gliderol, Steel-Line, Merlin and ATA. Repair workmanship is covered for three months, and new parts supplied and fitted are covered for one year.
Repair it or replace it?
A well-kept garage door typically lasts 15 to 25 years. Much of Rowville's housing was built between 1991 and 2006, so if your home still has its first roller door, it may be at or past that age.
The technician can tell you on site whether a repair or a new door makes more sense. Onsite quotes for new doors are free.
Roller door questions
Why is my roller door heavy to lift?
The springs inside the roll have most likely lost tension, which happens with age. The door needs re-tensioning by a technician. Do not keep forcing it, and do not leave the motor to strain against it.
Can I re-tension a roller door myself?
No. The tension is held by the U-bolts on the axle. Loosening them can release the spring and bring the door down hard.
What should I spray in roller door guides?
Clean them first with turps or metho on a cloth. If you use anything after that, use silicone spray. Door makers say not to use grease, oil, WD-40 or RP7 in the guides.
Why does my roller door go up crooked?
Usually a spring has lost tension, the curtain is bent or a guide is loose. Stop using it if it is catching, and have it checked.
How often should a roller door be serviced?
At least once a year for a home door. B&D says every 12 months for its Roll-A-Door, and more often for doors that get heavy use.
Can you fit a motor to my manual roller door?
Yes. Adding a motor to a roller door generally costs $899 to $1,199 supplied and installed. The door has to be balanced first, because an opener is not made to lift a heavy door.
Do you repair older roller doors?
Yes. AGG Doors works on almost every brand sold in Australia, including discontinued models, and keeps older parts at Hallam. One exception is the Flex-A-Door, which AGG Doors does not repair.